Serves 4

The pre-Colombian Tainos had no significant form of domestic or wild livestock, other than some species of aquatic birds or parrots, to complement their diet of tubers and seafood. The arrival of Columbus, and later the Spanish colonists, changed life in Puerto Rico through the introduction of every imaginable European wild and domesticated fowl. Quails, pheasants, ducks, geese, turkeys, chickens, pigeons, guinea hens, soon became commonplace on The Island.

As happens in nature, adaptation to the environment dictates the ratio of survival for species. On The Island, none of the wildlife species survived, but the domestic variety adapted well, and some chickens and cocks eventually evolved into regional breeds identified as del pais (“from The Island”). These are still bred today in small numbers on farms and in backyards by sentimental individuals.

I call the following recipe Taino Pollo Picante, as a personal tribute to the Taino Indians, who were not able to overcome the hostilities of a newly-imposed environment. and who ultimately chose not to adapt.

Ingredients

1 4-pound chicken
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 teaspoon rock salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 small hot chili peppers
1 teaspoon minced fresh gingerroot
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin seeds
1/2 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons paprika
1/3 cup Spanish brandy
3 chopped green onions
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/3 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup burgundy
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Garnish: lemon wedges

Preparation

Wash the chicken parts, pat dry and remove the skin. Place in a deep square pan and set aside. In the belly of a mortar, combine garlic, salt, oregano, and black peppercorns. Press down with the pestle until garlic is crushed and peppercorns are cracked, then add the chili peppers, minced ginger, and saffron threads. Slowly pound the mixture until achieving a paste and incorporate the oil slowly. At the same time, stir with a spoon to break down the paste.
Spread the mixture evenly over the chicken parts, lifting the chicken pieces to ensure distribution of the marinade to the bottom of the chicken parts. Sprinkle all parts with paprika. Cover and refrigerate overnight. If no mortar and pestle is available, execute the steps in a blender set on low speed until all the ingredients are coarsely chopped, then remove the canister, add the oil and shake or stir to break down the paste and blend the ingredients.
In a preheated deep skillet, over low-to-medium heat, arrange marinated chicken pieces side by side and brown the chicken on all sides. Spread the chopped onions, chopped tomatoes, and drizzle the burgundy over the chicken parts.
Cover and finish cooking on low heat for approximately 35 minutes. Remove from heat and sprinkle chopped cilantro on the chick prior to serving. You may serve directly from the skillet.
Serving Suggestions: Serve with White Rice and Black Beans, Puerto Rican style. On the side, an Avocado Salad would be great, as would any tender root vegetable.

(Habichuelas Rojas Guisadas en Vino Tinto)

Serves 6

When a Puerto Rican thinks of “mom’s cooking,” he or she thinks of the way mother served stewed red beans with rice. As a great lover of beans, I can appreciate them cooked in almost any manner, and as a chef, I am always creating new ways of preparing these wonderful legumes. In this new dish, as with other stewed bean dishes to follow, I make use of precooked or pureed vegetables, such as squash, carrots, turnips, and sweet potatoes. I control the consistency of the sauce without altering the taste of the beans. Using yellow vegetables, I supplement the nutritional value of the beans without adding the additional starch found in the tubers.

Incorporating diced tubers, such as malanga (giant-sized taro), yautia (taro), and yuca (cassava), is a culinary custom in traditional Puerto Rican home cooking. The glutinous property of these tubers mixes with the natural stock of the beans, creating a perfect emulsifier that holds the beans together. Although the result is terrific, the naturally nutty flavor of the bean tends to become subordinated to the intense flavor of the starchy tubers.

In my new style of Puerto Rican bean cookery, I offer a method where the combined properties of the vegetables act as natural emulsifiers and sweeteners. And the sum of all these ingredients interacting and blending together renders an exquisite new way to enjoy the bean at its best.

Ingredients

1/4 pound banana squash
1/3 cup olive oil
5 garlic cloves, minced
5 shallots, thinly sliced
1/3 cup chopped red bell pepper
2 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano (1 teaspoon dried)
1/2 cup lean diced ham
4 medium tomatoes, peeled (use the charred method to peel tomatoes)
1 cup dry red table wine
1 pound simmered red beans with stock
1/4 teaspoon pulverized rock salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

Preparation

Peel the banana squash and simmer in enough water to cover the squash until fully cooked. Discard water and mash the squash with a fork or blender while it is still hot. Set the puree aside.
In a preheated kettle on low heat, combine olive oil, garlic, shallots, red bell pepper, cilantro, parsley, oregano, and ham. Saute slowly, until most of the oil has been absorbed. Stir in tomatoes and squash puree and bring to a sizzle.
Stir in the wine and allow to cook down to a thick paste consistency. Slowly break down the paste and the bean stock until achieving a rich sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Lower the heat, then gently fold in the beans and blend without damaging the beans. Simmer for approximately 12 minutes.

Serving Suggestions: Serve with White or Yellow Rice. This is also good alongside Avocado Salad or Avocado Salad with Chayotes.

Serves 4

Since most Puerto Ricans are Catholic and the fundamental teachings of the Church were, traditionally, not to be questioned but acted upon, one of the practices most conscientiously adhered to was the observance of Lent, known as Cuaresma or forty days. The peak of this rite was reached during Holy Week when virtually everything stopped and no work was performed. A blanket of pious solemnity would cover The Island, and most hearts and minds were preoccupied with prayers for miracles and the coming and passing of Christ.

Countless tales of redeeming miracles for the true believer were told, and eerie tales of punishment for the transgressors abounded. One of my favorite warnings was, “Do not use the knife or it will turn to blood.” I waited many disappointing years to see this metamorphosis! There were times when I was tempted to defy the warning, but I could never muster enough courage to go through with it.

Out of fear and respect, most people abstained from using knives and sharp objects in their homes and at work. Slaughtering of livestock would cease and no meat would be prepared or served. It was during this time that the majority of Puerto Ricans turned to two other logical sources of food: fish from the sea and tubers from the land. The abundance of seafood on the coastal regions of The Island and the availability of springtime fruit and vegetables from the interior during Cuaresma provided kitchens with the natural ingredients that were needed to create flavorful and nutritional dishes that easily satisfied the most demanding and holy palate.

Since most salads were destined to be served as main dinner courses, they needed to be hearty, diversified, and healthy, as well as have readily available and affordable ingredients. Refrigeration was limited, so preservation without contamination was an important factor when choosing fresh, raw food. Octopus (pulpo) and conch (carrucho) became the popular seafood choices. Both are inherently large, chewy, flavorful, and in abundance. With the proper preparation (boiling at high temperatures to kill toxins, and employing the enzymes contained in lemon, lime, and vinegar to cure the meat), and using the preservative properties of combined herbs and spices, the octopus and conch behave very well and can keep for an extended period of time. The longer the curing time (pickling), the softer and more flavorful the fish becomes while submerged in the marinade.

Although one of the popular methods applied was the curing of the live octopus in a spiced rum marinade, I have introduced a more realistic and acceptable salad recipe for the contemporary palate, applying a fast-cooking method along with an on-the-spot marinade. Octopus and conch can be purchased at most fresh fish markets in the United States, especially in Latino or Asian communities.

To Prepare Octopus:

2 pounds raw fresh octopus (large)
4 quarts water
2 teaspoons rock salt
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1 small lemon, cut in half
4 whole garlic cloves, peeled
2 whole bay leaves
2 green onions rimmed to 5 inches whole

The Salad:

1/2 medium green bell pepper, diced
1/2 medium red bell pepper, diced
1 small red onion, diced
4 garlic cloves peeled, minced
1/4 teaspoon ground black peppercorns
1 teaspoon pulverized rock salt
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano (1 teaspoon dried)
1/3 cup pitted black olive
1/3 cup capers
1/2 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
4 lettuce leaves, washed and patted dry
1 bunch of watercress, washed, with large stems removed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Garnish: 4 thick slices of tomato, cut in halves, 4 lemon wedges, 4 lime wedges
Preparation

Rinse octopus thoroughly in warm running water for 1 minute. Then place in a stockpot with 2 to 3 quarts of water. Add whole rock salt, whole peppercorns, lemon, garlic, 2 bay leaves, and green onions.
Place on high heat and bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium and continue cooking for approximately 1 hour or until octopus is tender. The octopus must be completely covered with water while cooking; when water level diminishes, add more, otherwise the meat will not become tender.
The cooking time will be affected by the size of the octopus. As you check for the water level, also check for tenderness of the meat by sticking a fork through the fattest part of the tentacles. The fork should go through without effort when the meat is done and ready to be taken out.
Once done, transfer octopus to a colander and place under cold running water. Slide your hand up and down the tentacles so as to remove the top layer of the slippery tissues. The octopus head has an inner lining; turn the head inside out and remove the tissue.
To make the salad, dice the octopus into pieces approximately l/4-inch thick. Using a glass salad bowl (wood or metal will adversely alter the taste), combine octopus meat, diced green and red peppers, red onion, minced garlic, ground black peppercorns, pulverized salt, oregano, olives, capers, olive oil, lime juice, red wine vinegar, and 3 bay leaves. Toss vigorously, then cover and store at room temperature (but away from direct heat) for at least 1 hour.
To serve: layer individual salad plates with green lettuce leaves and a bed of watercress. Using a slotted spoon, scoop a mound of octopus salad onto the plate, then sprinkle chopped cilantro on the top.

Serving Suggestions:

For a complete lunch or dinner on a hot summer day, serve with White Rice, red beans and boiled plantain, or Yellow Rice, black beans, and Marinated Yuca, or Breadfruit Tostones on the side.

Variations: For Conch Salad, substitute octopus with 2 pounds of conch meat. Using a sharp knife, cut into thin fillets then use a meat mallet to pound both sides of the fillets to tenderize the conch. Follow the Octopus Salad recipe instructions for boiling, then coarsely chop the conch meat and follow the octopus salad directions for mixing.

Tags:

ensalada de pulpo, Pulpo Salad Recipes

It is said of a person who has been under the sweltering sun that he is sancocho – blistering hot or “stewing.” This Puerto Rican stew best illustrates the one-step cooking method, a typical food preparation that has prevailed for five hundred years in Puerto Rican homes, primarily because it allows the latitude for batch cooking a nutritious meal in a single pot.

The barbacoa technique employed by the Tainos has evolved more sophisticated and complex cooking technology, but the spirit and the legacy of the barbacoa are constant as we struggle against the drudgery of the modern work day and subsequent meal preparation. When you come home, why not spend 15 minutes of preparation and 45 minutes of “R and R?” The pot over the heat does the cooking you end up with a delicious beefy stew.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil
5 garlic cloves, minced
1-1/2 pounds top round beef, cubed into 1-1/2-inch pieces
1/3 cup chopped yellow onions
1/3 cup chopped green pepper
1/3 cup chopped celery
1 teaspoon minced fresh gingerroot
1 chili pepper; seeded and minced
5 sprigs of cilantro, chopped
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon pulverized rock salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/3 cup burgundy wine
4 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped
4 quarts beef stock
2 green bananas, peeled and slice into 1-inch pieces
1 yellow plantain, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces
1 medium sweet potato (1/2 pound), diced into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound butternut squash, peeled and cubed into 1-inch pieces
3 medium new potatoes, scrubbed clean and quartered
1 large chayote, peeled, cored, and diced into 1-inch pieces
2 ears of white corn, cleaned and sliced into 6 parts each

Preparation

In a preheated kettle over low-to-medium heat, combine olive oil, garlic, beef cubes, and onions, stir until beef is brown on all sides and onions begin to caramelize. Fold in chopped pepper, celery, gingerroot, chili pepper, cilantro, cumin, salt, white pepper, burgundy wine, tomatoes, and 1 quart of beef stock. Cook down until stock is reduced by half.
Stir beef, then fold in all the remaining vegetables and beef stock. Continue to cook until meat is tender and the vegetables soft.

Serving Suggestions:

Since this soup contains beef and vegetables, it is hearty already. Serve alongside a fresh bread and use the bread to soak up some of this delicious flavor.